Q. What is the difference between standard "ceramic" tiles and "porcelain" tiles?
A. Tile terminology can be confusing. Most types of tiles that are made from clay or a mixture of clay and other materials, then kiln-fired, are considered to be a part of the larger classification called "Ceramic Tiles". These tiles can be split into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. These non-porcelain tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves, separate from porcelain tiles.

"Ceramic" or "non-porcelain" tiles are generally made from red or white clay fired in a kiln. They are almost always finished with a durable glaze which carries the color and pattern. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain. Non-porcelain ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally have a relatively high water absorption rating making them less frost resistant and they are more prone to wear and chipping than porcelain tiles.

Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color and pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.

Generally, porcelain tile is best for floor while ceramic tile is best for walls. Porcelain is made much the same but it is denser clay and thus a harder tile. Most are not glazed like ceramic tile.

Q. What is the difference between standard "ceramic" tiles and "porcelain" tiles?
A. To be used outdoors, we recommend the tile must be frostproof and unglazed for floor use.

Q. What is the difference between glazed and full-body tiles?
A. Glazed tiles are coated with a liquid glass, which is then baked into the surface of the clay. The glaze provides an unlimited array of colors and designs as well as protects the tile from staining. The unglazed tiles are pretty much the same as the glazed tile, except that their surface is not coated. Full-body porcelain tiles do not show wear because their color extends throughout the tile, making them ideal for commercial applications.

Q. Should a sealer be used on ceramic tile?
A. A glazed tile is already stain proof, so there is no purpose to putting on a sealer. You may put a penetrating sealer on your unglazed tile or your grout joints. The penetrating sealer is an invisible, stain resistant shield that is absorbed into the surface.

Q. Where can your tiles be used and what is a PEI rating?
A. PEI classes range from 0 to 5. The "Porcelain Enamel Institute" rating scale is not a measurement of quality. It is a scale that clearly indicates the areas of use each manufacturer recommends and has designed their tile to fit.

Class 0 - No Foot Traffic: Wall tile only and should not be used on floors.

Class 1 - Very light traffic: Wall tile only and should not be used on floors.

Class 2 - Light Traffic: Wall tile only and should not be used on floors.

Class 3 - Light to Moderate Traffic: Any residential area with the possible exception of some entries and kitchens if extremely heavy or abrasive traffic is anticipated.

Class 4 - Moderate to Heavy Traffic: High foot traffic, areas where abrasive or outside dirt could be tracked. Residential entry, kitchen, balcony, and countertop.

Class 5 - Heavy Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for residential, commercial and institutional floor subjected to heavy traffic.

1. Continue working in quadrants as before.

• Using a rubber float, apply only enough grout as you can effectively work with.
• In a diagonal direction, press grout into the joints to an even level with the tile.
• Skim excess from tile with the rubber float. You will notice a mild “grout haze” on your tiles.
• Use a damp sponge to remove grout haze from tiles, making sure not to press too hard on joints.
• Continue this process with other joints in remaining quadrants.

2. For joints at the wall and floor interface it is best to use caulk instead of grout. There are benefits to using caulk along wall joints. All tiles may expand or contract depending on temperature fluctuations. The wall joints are also known as expansion joints. Using caulk here will buffer expansion and contraction a bit.

3. After grouting is complete, you are practically done. Wait for the entire floor to cure for about a week before giving it a good mopping to remove remaining grout haze.
You may also choose to seal the grout with a sealer to lock out dirt and or grease.

Cleaning
All ceramic tiles are stain resistant and require very little maintenance. A basic maintenance program would be to dust mop and spot-mop as necessary, then mop with a cloth-mop and neutral cleaner on a regular basis. However, some tiles will have better dirt hiding capabilities than others, and some will be easier to maintain than others.

Dirt hiding capabilities
Tiles with texture and multiple colors will hide dust and dirt better than tiles with smooth, monochromatic colors.

Slip resistance
A ceramic tile surface is more slip resistant than almost any other flooring surface. However, be aware that an abrasive surface will require an occasional deep cleaning.

Sealing
Glazed ceramic tile floor will never need sealing, waxes or coatings of any kind. Some through body porcelain tiles may; check with the porcelain manufacturer to verify requirements.

Sweeping
Tracked in dirt is abrasive and can damage your floor tile. Sweep floor regularly to prevent loose dust & abrasive particles from scratching your floor. Sweep floor with a dust mop or vacuum sweeper (without a beater brush or bar).

Mopping
Mop floor weekly to maintain appearance using a string or cloth-type mop. Sponge mops can streak your floor and shouldn't be used. Clear water or neutral pH cleaners are recommended for ceramic tile and grout surfaces. Follow manufacturer instructions on cleaning and rinsing for best results.

Protect your investment
- Equip furniture legs with felt floor protectors. Dirt and sand imbedded into plastic or wooden legs act as sandpaper as furniture is moved across your floor.
- Place rugs or mats both inside and outside of exterior entryways.
- Place rugs or mats at areas around kitchen sinks and dishwashers to prevent impact damage from dishes and utensils.
- Damaged ceramic tile floor can usually be replaced and restored to original condition if you have extra tile available from your specific shade.
- Purchase several extra pieces to keep on hand for repairs.
- Contact a licensed tile contractor to make the repair.

Never, Never, Never
- Never seal or wax your ceramic tile. These coatings are unnecessary. They will attract and hold dirt on your floor surface.
- Never use vinegar or bleach for regular cleaning. They can adversely affect the tile and grout with continual use.
- Never use steel wool or abrasive cleaners for ongoing maintenance. They can mar your tile surface if used repeatedly.

Keep this in mind
Your ceramic tile can be maintained with minimal effort. Follow these basic care and maintenance guidelines and your floor will retain its beauty for years to come.

1. Tile
2. Tile adhesive or "mastic"
3. A notched trowel
4. A tile saw or a tile scorer
5. A diamond hole saw to cut out radiator pipes and other holes
6. Grout
7. Rubber float (a putty knife will scratch the tile face)
8. Tape measure (or digital laser tape)
9. Bucket (with warm water)
10. Sponge
11. Level
12. Chalk line
13. Pencil
14. Tile spacer